Fiano is an ancient white grape that is native to the southern Italian region of Campania. According to the reference Wine Grapes, Fiano was mentioned as early as 1240, and originated near the town of Avellino in the area in the Appenine Mountains known as Irpinia. Some say that Fiano was once known as Apiana (known for its berries attracting bees), but that contention is disputed by others, although there is no dispute that the Fiano berries attract bees.
Fiano was all but forgotten after the phylloxera epidemic of the early 20th century, but began a revival in the 1970s, led by Antonio Mastroberardino. The story can be found at www.mastroberardino.com. Now the variety is planted in other areas of Campania, as well as Sicily and Australia.
The wine pictured is a Mastroberardino Radici Fiano di Avellino DOCG. It is floral, with notes of apple, pear, and citrus, along with a touch of honey. There are hints of hazelnut because of the proximity of the vineyards to hazelnut orchards, and minerality from the volcanic and clay soils in which the grapes are grown. It is full-bodied with some waxy consistency, and there is a hint of pine on the nose.
This wine is worth a trip off the beaten path as an alternative to more often thought of white wines for salads, seafood, and grilled chicken.
